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How to get out of a midlife makeup rut

Feel like your makeup just isn’t landing the way it used to? Here’s how to refresh your routine.
Woman applying makeup
Swap matte lipstick for creamy formulas. Image: Getty

Makeup in your 40s and beyond isn’t about hiding anything – it’s about adapting. As skin tends to become drier, softer and less light-reflective, the tricks that once worked can suddenly fall flat. Celebrity makeup artist and founder of Basics by B, Bonnie Gillies, says the most common concerns she sees are “dullness, dryness, and a loss of definition in the features.”

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“Skin doesn’t reflect light the way it used to so foundation can sit differently, eye makeup can smudge more easily, and lips often lose shape and fullness,” she explains. But the good news? A few strategic tweaks can completely transform how makeup looks and lasts. Below, the simple updates that make the biggest difference.

Brightening your base

If you’ve been relying on the same matte, full-coverage foundation for decades, Bonnie says it might be time to let it go. “Clinging to heavy, matte foundation is the big one. In your 40s, 50s, and 60s, it tends to make skin look flat and older.”

A brighter, lighter base is the fastest way to look refreshed. Think tinted moisturisers, sheer foundations and glow-enhancing formulas paired with subtle colour correction around areas of dullness. Radiant textures are back – with one caveat.

“Your base should become more radiant, but the radiant products need to dry down or be set lightly with powder so they last,” Bonnie says. She suggests using concealer strategically to avoid overloading skin: “It means you can use less foundation overall but still look bright and even.”

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Concealer / Foundation

$63 at Aleph Beauty

A hybrid skin-perfector that melts into skin for buildable coverage from sheer to full, while nourishing and smoothing for a natural, radiant complexion that improves over time.

Smudge-proof eyes that stay lifted

As eyelids become more hooded and lashes thin, eye makeup can feel harder than it used to. Bonnie says many women unknowingly age their eyes with leftover habits from their 20s – especially lower-lash liner.

“Dark, harsh eyeliner on the lower lash line drags the eye down and emphasises puffiness,” she explains. Instead, reach for soft, smudged definition around the top lash line to gently lift the eye without heaviness.

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For hooded lids, placement is everything. “Place your crease colour slightly above your natural crease to open up the eyes,” Bonnie advises. Tools matter, too: “You must have good makeup brushes, so blending is easy.”

And if you’re still dealing with panda-eyes by lunchtime, tubing mascara is your new best friend. “It avoids that midday ‘panda’ moment and annoying flakes and fibres irritating the eyes.”

Trade heavy foundations for lighter skin tints. Image: Canva

Natural lips with soft definition

Fading lip colour or bleeding pigment are common bugbears, so Bonnie says lip liner is non-negotiable. “A soft lip liner is your best friend,” she says. “Choose a tone close to your natural lip colour and gently over-line just the outer edge for subtle fullness.”

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To keep colour from slipping into fine lines, try filling the entire lip with pencil before topping with a balmy lipstick or lip oil. “This keeps colour from bleeding while giving you that healthy, youthful sheen.”

Light, hydrating formulas also look fresher than traditional matte lipsticks, offering a more modern feel without sacrificing polish.

Face-shaping bronzer for soft lift

Forget heavy contouring – soft shaping is far more flattering at midlife. “Think up and out,” Bonnie says. “A touch of bronzer along the upper outer cheek, not the hollow, creates lift without looking muddy.”

Blush placement also matters: “Blush should sit slightly higher on the cheekbones (on the fullest part of the cheek bone) to brighten the face.” Her rule of thumb? “Angle everything upwards and outwards toward the hairline and keep everything soft, creamy and blended.”

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This approach creates a naturally lifted effect without harsh stripes or shadowing.

Bronzer can help add definition and lift. Image: Getty

Choosing the right textures

Creams and powders both have their place, depending on your skin type and climate. “Cream formulas can be more flattering because they look instantly dewy, but it really depends on your skin type,” Bonnie says. “If you get oily skin, or live somewhere humid, a powder can work beautifully.”

The most important factor? “It’s all about texture: you want products that melt into the skin, not sit on top.”

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Liquid Blush & Contour

$30 at Basics by B

The Basics by B Liquid Cheek Colours delivers a skin-like, buildable wash of colour that glides on creamy for a dewy, long-lasting flush – perfect for cheeks (or even a subtle lips/eyes tint) when you want effortless radiance.

Shifting your mindset

If your routine feels outdated, Bonnie’s advice is simple: embrace change. “Don’t be afraid to lighten up your look and let go of old habits. Makeup trends change and if you don’t update your look, you might feel like you aren’t looking your best.”

Her philosophy is grounded in enhancement, not reinvention. “Swap heaviness for freshness, embrace glow, and focus on enhancing your natural features rather than masking them. A few small changes such as less hard lines, a softer eye and a fresher lip can make you feel polished and modern.”

If you’re not sure where to start, stores like Mecca offer makeup lessons which are then redeemable on product.

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