I have never cruised anywhere in my life. The longest I have stayed on a ship was on an overnight ferry from Ireland to France. That being said, although I have never been much inclined to travel on a cruise, I was always curious. However, I was invited to experience my first ever cruise this year. Fittingly, it was to my home country of Ireland.
The best way to know if you like something is to give it a go. So, I packed up my bags, sorted my newly acquired Australian passport and called up my mother (back in Ireland) to be my travel companion. And the two of us set sail with Viking Cruises.
Follow along if you’ve ever been curious about what happens on a Viking Ocean Cruise or the route we’re travelling on — the British Isles Explorer. This specific route travels from Norway to Ireland and the UK.
Day 15: London, England (Disembarkation day)
We made it to the capital of England around 1 am. Thankfully, our disembarkation time wasn’t until 9.30 am, so we could enjoy breakfast and relax in The Living Room.
The actual disembarkation was seamless. If you had paid for the cruise with cash, you had to settle your account the night before, but if you had a credit or debit card on file, any additional expenses (from spa treatments, shore excursions, etc.) would be charged and invoiced. I received my invoice at breakfast, so if there were any issues, I could have gone straight to Guest Services on deck 1. But I didn’t have any, so Mum and I could relax.
Ours was one of the last groups to be called. We said goodbye to the crew and the ship and, once ashore, collected our bags. Waiting for us outside the cruise terminal were the organised coaches (and taxis for those doing independent travel). Along the way to Heathrow, a Viking crew member told us which zone to go to for our flights and even gave us a little bit of a guide to Tilbury (the port we were in), kind of like a mini-shore excursion.
The whole cruise, Mum and I felt incredibly well looked after and were so grateful to Viking and the crew for literally thinking of everything. However, we were partly glad to get back to normal life. But not just yet. Since our flights weren’t until the evening, Mum and I dropped our bags at the terminal and caught the tube to London city for an impromptu shore excursion of our own, via a bus tour of course!
Day 14: Dover, England
We woke on our last full cruise day to incredible views of the iconic white cliffs of Dover. Some of us gathered early for sunrise over the cliffs and listened to a lecture from Viking’s resident historian, Geoff Peters. The Viking crew even prepared some coffee and pastries for those of us who braved the early hour and the single-digit temperatures outside. The views were stunning. I had to go wake Mum up to see them as well. A couple of other passengers and I watched from the sun deck on deck 8.
Once we pulled into port, my Mum and I had a fantastic view of Dover Castle atop the cliffs from our stateroom. The views were immaculate.
Afterwards, Mum went for a walk and to relax with the views, while I caught up on writing and relaxed in the room. After we had lunch, we headed out on our shore excursion.
Shore excursion: Deal and Dover Castle
Our last shore excursion on this route! We again chose the included tour as it had been an excellent way to get to know the port we were in. Our guide was a local who brought us through the English countryside, each side of the road flanked by fields of green or yellow canola flowers (called rapeseed in the UK). We passed refurbished mills from the Middle Ages and old estate houses on our way to the seaside town of Deal.
Unlike other ports, this one was surprisingly less touristy. After listening to our guide’s orientation of the town, we scoured the local shops for a fridge magnet for Mum’s collection, but left empty-handed. One shopping assistant even said that there wouldn’t be any in any of the shops. Nevertheless, we had a fantastic day perusing the charity and vintage shops, the local independent clothing stores and craft shops.
A lot of the historic neighbourhood is preserved, including its jetty. We paid a visit to another castle built by King Henry VIII to protect against the French and walked along the shingle shore before catching our bus back to the port. On the way, our tour guide passed around chocolate as it was her birthday, and it’s tradition in England for the birthday boy or girl to bring sweet treats to others to celebrate. Before we got to the port, we also stopped by Dover Castle for a photo stop. The castle looked incredibly preserved, and if I ever return, I will be heading straight up that hill to explore.
Back on board
As it’s our last day on the ship, we had to (literally) soak it up in the spa. We went from the thermal pool to the steam room, and then I went on to the sauna and the cold plunge (I get why people like them now!). Sadly, we also wanted to enjoy the snow grotto, but alas, the crew had to reset it for the new guests arriving the next day.
As it’s our last day, all passengers were also given disembarkation information. Every guest is given colour-coded tags for their luggage and a disembarkation time. Tonight, before 10 pm, we had to leave our packed suitcases outside our stateroom for the crew to collect. In the morning, we would be called by our colour tags to collect our luggage ashore and either catch the Viking-organised coach to the airport, or continue independently. So, after the spa, we packed.
Dinner and a show
Then, we toasted to our final day with pre-dinner cocktails at The Bar. We noted that it was quick, but surmised that perhaps people were still returning from their shore excursion or having dinner. We opted to return to Manfreddi’s, the onboard Italian restaurant, for our final night. I had perhaps one of the best lasagnes ever before a massive portion of osso bucco with saffron risotto.
While we were finishing our meal, we noticed again how quiet it was. We checked the Viking Daily and a film was being shown, so we theorised everyone was in there. We also saw that the Viking Band were performing in Torshavn, so we went there for a final nightcap. Inside, the music was pumping, but only about ten other people were there. After enjoying the tunes (including a cameo from one of the Viking Vocalists), we called it a night.
Back in our room, we found out why most of the ship had gone to bed early. The first people to disembark tomorrow will be doing so at 2 am. I’d have an early night as well!
Day 13: Portsmouth, England
We woke up on day 12 right in the middle of Portsmouth Harbour, with ferries on the starboard side and navy ships (including the Prince of Wales aircraft carrier) on the port side of the ship.
It’s a busy harbour and has been for generations. The city is actually celebrating its 100 years of cityhood in 2026. But the harbour has been operating here for much longer. As in, from the time of the Roman Empire.
If you’re from a Navy family or are interested in World War II, you should 100 per cent visit Portsmouth.
Shore excursions
In the morning, we got a great panoramic tour of the city from a local guide (the included shore excursion). It was a great way to get the lay of the land. Our guide pointed out some interesting areas, including the recently revamped seafront by the Solent (the sea between England and the Isle of Wight), and took us to Fort Nelson. The fort is one of five that were built to prevent an attack from the French, which never actually transpired. It is now a museum with artillery from across the world and centuries. There are perfectly preserved tunnels and armouries for visitors to explore, plus it enjoys great views over the island of Portsmouth (yep, it’s an island) and the surrounding seas.
We had a quick lunch back on the cruise ship and then headed out again on the shuttle bus to the city. There were four stops, but we wanted to explore the seaside. We got off right outside the D-Day museum, but instead went to the free Southsea Castle and Lighthouse. Built by ing Henry VIII (yes, the one with the wives), also to protect against the French. It was in operation until the 1960s. We walked along the pebble beach and enjoyed the free art installation called “The Windbreaks”, which features local artists’ work.
Back on board
The World Cafe was hosting a “Taste of Great Britain” night (complete with my favourite sticky toffee pudding for dessert), but we opted for The Restaurant. We were seated by the window and enjoyed a gorgeous sunset as we tucked into our dinner (lamb for me, chicken for her). But for dessert, I did grab a serving of sticky toffee pudding from upstairs and had it in the lounge with Mum before tonight’s big party: The Farewell Reception.
Like the welcoming reception, the Captain and Cruise Director thanked us for choosing Viking and thanked the crew for their efforts. The Captain also shared a childhood story he wrote about wanting to be a captain (“because it’s not hard”).
The crew received a standing ovation from the passengers (they are fantastic), and afterwards, the Viking Vocalists performed the Abba Songbook to the delight of the crowd.
Next (and final) stop: Dover.
Day 12: Sea Day
No port today! Instead, the crew and passengers are sailing non-stop en route to Portsmouth. As expected, the spa was booked out, and the restaurants had no available reservations. However, unexpectedly, we had phenomenal weather. The crew brought out deck chairs and comfy outdoor couches on the sundecks on decks seven, eight, and nine, and, for the first time, passengers used the infinity pool and hot tub on deck seven.
Afraid we might not hit our step count on this sea day, Mum and I went down to deck two to do a long walk. Deck two is the only deck that you can walk all the way around. Four laps is the equivalent of one mile, so after breakfast we walked about 4 kilometres (I’m not doing the mathematics). Mum then went to read a book on the deck and enjoy the sunshine, while I relaxed in the room. Later on, we caught historian Geoff Peters’ lecture on how Great Britain came to be.
A chill afternoon and evening
That afternoon, we decided to try our luck at the spa. We assumed it would be packed, but surprisingly, we nearly had the thermal pool to ourselves! Seemingly, most people were opting to enjoy the sun deck or get treatments. After a relaxing afternoon in the thermal pool and snow grotto (fast becoming one of my favourite places on board), we went for dinner.
That night, on the way to dinner, I spotted a dolphin in the English Channel and accidentally caused a bit of a traffic jam of passengers trying to catch a glimpse as well. For dinner, Mum chose the beef wellington (and listened to my endless discussion of the recent case in Australia), whereas I got the duck (again).
After dinner, we again went for a nightcap and Scrabble. At this point in the cruise, I had resigned myself to never beating my mother. However, the Scrabble gods were on my side. She only had vowels and 1-point letters. I finally prevailed!
Day 11: Dublin, Ireland
On the morning of Tuesday, 7 April, we sailed into the port of Dún Laoghaire. Normally, when I come home to Ireland, I catch a plane (or three), it was a dream to sail into the waters of our capital with views of Howth to the north, Wicklow mountains to the south and straight ahead the iconic red and white striped Poolbeg chimneys.
Many of the passengers on board are tracing their family heritage; most of their ancestors took a ship from Ireland to the UK or onwards to the Americas, so travelling the same way back to their ancestors’ homeland is a powerful experience for them. For me, travelling with my mum from her hometown to my home country is beyond special.
As Dublin is the gateway to Ireland for many tourists to the country, many of the guests were taking advantage of the organised shore excursions. There are options like exploring the Long Room and Book of Kells at Trinity College, or tracing the origins of the “Black Stuff” at the Guinness Storehouse, or sipping a tipple of Ireland’s “usice beatha” (water of life, aka whiskey), or even journeying south to Powerscourt Estate and Gardens. Others were opting to explore the capital independently, thanks to the organised shuttle buses which would take them straight into the heart of the city.
Our Australian cruise friends, Dave and Aly, even caught a train to Bray in County Wicklow for the afternoon.
My uncle, who owns and operates a private tour company, Wild Willow Tours, was even collecting a group off the ship and taking them to Callan in County Kilkenny so one of the guests could visit the countryside of her ancestors.
Exploring Dún Laoghaire
Those less intrepid but still curious could explore the port and town of Dún Laoghaire itself. This is what my mother and I did, because unlike many on board, we were again seeing family!
My father and his family left Northern Ireland when he was a child, and he actually grew up in Dublin. My aunts and uncle on his side all still live around Dublin. Plus, my partner’s brother and sister-in-law currently live in Dublin, with their newly born child! And, his parents were visiting them for Easter. An opportunity to see this many family members outside of Christmas, weddings, or funerals is basically nonexistent. Especially when you live on the other side of the planet.
So, my mother and I took ourselves off the ship, went straight to my cousin’s cafe close to the harbour, Vanilla Pod, and awaited everyone’s arrival. My partner’s parents, Nano and Pat, were the first to join us. They were followed by their daughter-in-law and granddaughter, then my father. Finally, my aunt Grainne arrived. After coffee and catch-ups, we walked along the foreshore to the iconic Forty Foot, spotting seals along the way and regretting not bringing our swimming togs (the water looked great).
Pat and Nano then went to explore the Maritime Museum, while the rest of us met my uncle Don, fresh off his private tour with our fellow passengers, for a coffee at the Royal Marine Hotel. My other aunt, Roisin, also came to meet us there, fresh off a podcast to promote her upcoming arts festival, Five Lamps.
Back on board
While getting ready for dinner in our room, I heard the dulcet tones of “Danny Boy” coming from the pool area. We walked out onto the open-air deck on deck 8 and realised that there was a party happening downstairs. Viking’s guitarist and singer, Bea, was singing Irish songs, joined by a member of the Viking Band on a tin whistle and flute. The crowd were also tucking into classic fish and chips, served on a not-so-traditional three-tier trays. We grabbed a seat right up front to sing along with Bea and enjoy the actually very tasty fish and chips.
Afterwards, we watched the sunset over Dublin Bay and bade farewell to home for a while.
Day 10: Liverpool, England
We woke up on Monday morning in sunny Liverpool, aka the home of The Beatles! Neither my Mum nor I had been to the city before, so we were going in blind. We again opted for the included shore excursion to explore the highlights of the city and set out early enough at 9.30 am.
Our tour guide brought us around to some of The Beatles’ haunts and shared his own favourite spots in the city before bringing us to the Anglican Liverpool Cathedral, the largest cathedral in the UK and the eighth largest church in the world. It is mind-boggingly enormous inside. Even if you aren’t religious, you could only be impressed by the skills and craftsmanship that went into this magnificent building. The pictures cannot do it justice. It was simply enormous.
Some interesting facts about the cathedral include its acidental whispering arch (where you can whisper something into the arch and the person on the other end can hear it perfectly), its pipe organ is the largest in the UK and when the catedal was first built the plans didn’t include a staircase to it so the playher had to climb a rope every service, its architect also designed the iconic red telephone boxes, a miniature of which is sitting in the cathedral. Sadly, the designer Sir Giles Gilbert Scott didn’t live to see the completion of the building.
Exploring Liverpool
After the tour, Mum and I went to the White Star Hotel, which was once the original White Star building where the Titanic plans were drawn up. You can just walk into the hotel and read up on its history. We then went to get a spot of lunch, where my Mum had another surprise waiting for me: her sister, my aunt Renee and her husband Chris drove down from Cumbria to see us!
After catching up and enjoying some tapas, we did some sightseeing together, starting with the iconic Cavern Quarter, home to the historic Cavern Club, where many artists, including The Beatles, performed over the years. We also explored St Luke’s Church, a bombed-out church in the centre of the city. The church was the victim of an incendiary device during the Liverpool Blitz in World War II. Liverpool was the second most bombed city in the UK after London. The church burned for days thanks to the incendiary device. However, its walls and tower survived the attack and are still standing today. Now, it’s an official wedding venue, hosts events and even has an on-site cafe, the proceeds from which go towards maintaining the church.
We then went to one of our Birmingham friend’s recommendations, The Philharmonic Dining Rooms. Like The Crown, it’s ornately designed and well worth a look-in. Afterwards, we walked back to briefly explore the newly restored Royal Albert Dock before bidding them farewell and embarking on our ship once again.
Liverpool was such a delight, we were pleasantly surprised by the city’s versatile architecture, vibrant history and variety of hospitality venues. I’m thrilled we got the opportunity to explore it.
Dinner at Manfredi’s
Tonight, we dined at Manfredi’s, Viking’s Italian restaurant. There, we enjoyed classic antipasti (Melanese and Caprese salads), traditional pasta dishes (pesto ravioli and carbonara), and dessert (tiramisu and a kind of cronut with fudge and vanilla gelato). My mother and I adore Italian food, and in fact, we lived together in Italy for three months. The food was delectable and was paired perfectly with the special wines served only at Manfredi’s (tonight it was a textbook Sangiovese).
We’ve already booked our second night at the restaurant before we return!
Day 9: Belfast, Northern Ireland
Thanks to Storm Dave, we had to stay put in Northern Ireland for a second day. And we woke up to a completely different day in Belfast. The skies were (mostly) clear, the sun was shining, and we could see all the way across the city to Cave Hill.
As we had an unexpected day in Belfast, Mum and I opted to go for the included tour organised by Viking. Their excursions team had rallied and organised all kinds of excursions from the Giant’s Causeway and the Glens of Antrim to these bus tours. It was an incredibly impressive show of organisation as they had less than 24 hours and had to organise tours on a public holiday (Easter Sunday).
Shore Excursion
We were on time for our bus excursion, but I, of course, forgot our QV boxes (earphones for the tour), so I ran back to get ours, and when I returned, our guide, Lois, joked with me, “Your mother told us not to let you back on.”
The tour was fantastic, we got to see some sights that even my mother, who lived in Belfast for years, hadn’t ever seen. We saw the so-called peace walls, which were built by the British authorities to divide Catholic and Protestant areas of the city and “keep the peace”; locals kept hurling things across at one another, so they are quite tall. The walls are now adorned with murals calling for peace in Northern Ireland and other parts of the world, including Palestine (which the Nationalists/Republicans in Ireland support). On the Unionist side, there was also a section for people to sign the wall. Many of those on the tour signed their names.
We also explored the Titanic Quarter, the surroundings of Queen’s University (my Mum also pointed out where she used to live and where she and her girlfriends would hang out), and Stormont (the government of Northern Ireland). Along the way, our tour guide Lois pointed out Belfast’s fantastic street art and installations, including “Nuala with the Hula”, real name Beacon of Hope, and also known as Doll with the Ball, the Thing with the Ring, among many other less polite nicknames.
Exploring Belfast again
After the tour, Mum and I walked the Maritime Mile and explored the Titanic Quarter on foot, along the way saying hi to Nuala with the Hula. The Titanic Museum and Quarter is well worth a visit; you could spend days there exploring everything. Afterwards, we made our way to one of the most iconic pubs in Belfast, The Crown. It boasts intricate carvings along its walls and ceilings, original gas lamps which still work and excellent (and private) snugs with doorbells to call for staff (we didn’t check if this was working) and original metal grates for striking matches. A family from Birmingham joined us in our snug as space was limited and gave us some recommendations for Liverpool (our next cruise stop), and we responded in kind with recommendations for Belfast.
Dinner, a show, and a chocolate smorgasbord
We caught the shuttle back to the ship, got dressed up for dinner at The Restaurant. Tonight, we also had a guest comedian on board, Lloyd Hollett. Described by the Viking Daily as a “comedic wordsmith.” He sounded right up my alley, so we grabbed a couple of drinks and made ourselves comfortable in the Star Theatre for his show. Now, the crowd loved him. They were in stitches. I will admit the man is an incredible singer; however, his comedy stylings were not to my taste. However, as mentioned, the crowd loved him.
Before the show, we had watched the Viking culinary staff construct what can only be described as a chocolate fever dream. A table heaving (thank the seas we were moored, because I don’t know how long it would’ve lasted over the Irish Sea) with mounds of chocolate cake, eggs, puddings, cupcakes, treats and more. We shared a plate of some delectable goodies before returning for the night. But another surprise awaited us in our room. Our room attendant, Anton, had left two Lindt bunnies on our bedside tables! It was such a sweet gesture and a fabulous way to mark the holiday.
Next stop: Liverpool!
Day 8: Belfast, Northern Ireland
What I’m really appreciating about Viking Cruises is the flexibility they provide for their passengers. You can choose to head out on a shore excursion organised by their team, or stay on board at your leisure, or explore the ports independently. In Belfast, we chose to do the latter.
As mentioned, my Mum is from Northern Ireland, actually only a few minutes outside Belfast. My father is also from Northern Ireland, moving from Belfast to Dublin when he was a child. Plus, thanks to Storm Dave, we are staying in Belfast overnight, so my Dad came to pick my mother and me up from the port after breakfast to visit family and family friends.
Exploring Belfast and its surrounds
We had tea and scones at Glenarm Castle, which has changed a lot since my childhood. It’s totally built up with quaint clothing and flower shops. Mum bought a scarf for me (yay) and treats for our family.
However, along the way, we did explore some Belfast sites. We went to the Falls Road to see the streets lined with tricolour flags and lilies (to mark the 1916 Easter Rising). The Falls area is the Catholic or Republican side of Belfast. It has remained so, even after the signing of the Good Friday Agreement, more or less. We went to the Belfast City Cemetery to pay our respects to some of the fallen from the Troubles.
We also explored some of the newer areas of Belfast, like the Cathedral Quarter. It has numerous traditional pubs and hidden gems tucked away down alleyways. So, we sheltered from the rain and enjoyed a pint in the Duke of York before sharing tapas at a nice spot around the corner.
Then, we said goodbye to my dad (we’ll be seeing him again in Dublin) and made our way back to the shuttle bus. Along the way, we spotted iconic Belfast sites like the Albert Clock (which we found out is actually leaning) and Belfast City Hall.
Back on the ship, we watched visiting historian Roger Killen’s lecture on the Troubles and how Belfast has evolved in recent years. Tomorrow we’re taking the official Viking tour!
Day 7: Ullapool, Scotland
On our seventh day, we reached the Scottish Highlands and the small port town of Ullapool. The scenery here was absolutely breathtaking. The harbour was surrounded by snow-capped glens blanketed in heather and whin bushes. Sadly, we were only moored here for a few hours, as we had a long journey ahead of us to Belfast.
This morning, we decided to go to Mamsen’s to try its famous Norwegian waffles. However, when we got there, we saw it was served with our old nemesis, brown cheese. We got a serving without the Norwegian delicacy, and they were delicious. However, I do recommend you try the brown cheese, as we already tried it in Stavanger, so we knew it wasn’t for us!
As our shore excursion wasn’t until about 11 am (and we had to set sail at 1 pm), mum and I spent the morning enjoying the views from the top deck of the ship. Thankfully, the rain stayed away while I sipped my coffee outside, although the wind was biting.
Shore excursion
Once we got ashore, we joined our group for a guided walking tour of the town. Ullapool is a small village in the Highlands that is popular for roadtrippers and campers, especially for those undertaking the NC500 Roadtrip across Scotland. Our guide told us that the campground is normally heaving at Easter, and while we were in the village, we passed numerous campervans coming to and from the town.
After our tour around the village, we enjoyed some tablet (fudge) and shortbread in a local pub and listened to traditional music played by a local on an accordion. We only have about 30 minutes left, so we raced to get Mum’s fridge magnet and for me to sample some local gin before we had to get back on board.
Back on board
There was a special soup station today, so we got ourselves some bread bowls filled with minestrone for lunch. Afterwards, we secured a couple of deck chairs to enjoy the view of the Highlands’ dramatic sea cliffs and the Hebrides from our ship. However, being so close to the pool made me want to swim a few strokes, so I changed into my swimsuit and did just that.
While in the pool, the captain made an announcement. Storm Dave was blowing in, and because its winds were forecasted to be very high, our route had to be changed. Mum and I thought he would say that we wouldn’t get to port in Belfast or Dublin (where we’re meeting family), but the captain said we would no longer be visiting Holyhead in Wales. Instead, we would be docking in Belfast for two nights! So that scuppered some plans of our fellow passengers. At the Belfast Port Talk, the Viking crew told us they were extending the shuttle service so we could explore the city later, and that shore excursions would be organised for our unexpected second day in Northern Ireland’s capital city.
Dinner at The Chef’s Table
For dinner, we attended The Chef’s Table, the ship’s speciality restaurant, offering a 5-course tasting menu with curated wine pairings. It is a rotating menu inspired by cuisines from around the world. Tonight, it was Asian Panorama: chilled king crab amuse bouche with coconut foam paired with a zippy Spanish sauvingnon blanc, followed by lobster and chicken shu mai paired with a super buttery chardonnay from Columbia Valley, USA; then a lemongrass and red chilli palate cleanser; followed by peking duck main course paired with a rich Californian zinfandel; finally the dessert was an “Asian Trilogy” of chocolate and banana spring rolls, yuzu creme brulee and matcha cheesecake. However, as I am allergic to bananas, I got two creme brulees.
At dinner, we got to chatting with the diners next to us, a lovely retired couple from Texas, “about eight miles from the Gulf of whatever you want to call it,” the husband, Mike, described it. He and his wife were avid cruisers, and it was actually a couple from Australia whom they met on a Viking River Cruise who convinced them to try the ocean routes. They love the Chef’s Table. Mike said that it was probably surprising, as he was raised on “steak and a bag of potatoes”, but he loved the flavours and the service. I have to say I agree.
My mother and I got an extra glass of the zinfandel, and I suggested we try another game of Scrabble, hoping that the wine would put mum off her game, but alas, yet again, she defeated me, handily.
Day 6: Kirkwall, The Orkney Islands
Around the island of Ireland, there are numerous small island systems (such as Achill Island). Many are uninhabited, and those that are are sparsely so. When we saw the Orkney Islands on the itinerary, my mum and I were expecting an island akin to the one in Banshees of Inisherin. How wrong we were. The Orkney Islands are, to put it frankly, incredible. 70 islands with schools, high schools, an award-winning hospital, and a collection of 5,000-year-old Neolithic sites dotted around the islands.
We were blown away by the gorgeous towns, excellent views (a rare sunny day on the Orkneys), and super-friendly and engaging people.
Shore excursion
We had an early start today, so we grabbed a quick breakfast before making our way ashore, where the Kirkwall port authorities had made a “Welcome Viking” sign and put up flags (no Australian or Irish ones, though). The port had also organised shuttle buses for those who wanted to go into the main town. However, we had an early shore excursion, first to the town of Stromness and then to the Neolithic site, the Ring of Brodgar.
Along the way, our guide told us the history of the Orkneys and a bit about island life. Once owned and ruled by the Vikings and Norway, the islands, along with Shetland, were given in a dowry for a princess of Denmark to marry the then king of Scotland. Agriculture is huge on the island, and we passed many fields full of sheep and lambs. Normally, there would be cattle as well, but it had been raining. Tourism is now a huge source of income, both from cruise ships like ours and ferries from mainland Scotland.
Stromness
At Stromness, I was craving a coffee after ruining my morning cup by accidentally putting cream in instead of coffee.
Along the main cobbled street, we came across VPCo Stromness Coffee and Print Works. The owner, William, was standing by the doorway as I looked at it. I spotted a Bellwether coffee roaster and gorgeous bird prints on the wall, and thought, “This is the place”.
We ordered a flat white and a chocolate twist pastry, both delicious and got to chatting with William. He was originally from England and was always travelling, looking for somewhere that felt tight to him. We joked that he kept moving further north until he couldn’t go any further. When he stepped off the ferry in Stromness, he shared that he got that feeling that he was in the right place. Here, he also met his wife, who travelled from South Africa and ended up working in the hotel. One thing led to another, and now William operates the coffee shop and printing press (with antique printers and coffee beans roasted on site). If you’re ever on the island, come back by for a pick-me-up and a chat.
After coffee, we had some time to explore and pick up some souvenirs. In a craft shop, I spoke with one of the artists who had travelled decades ago from America. She was on a teacher exchange in Glasgow and visited the Orkneys and fell in love. After years of applying for visas, the community rallied behind her, and now it’s her home and has been. She teased that many people “with her accent” say that they want to steal her life on the Scottish islands.
Ring of Brodgar
So after getting our Orkney Island fudge and fridge magnet, we hopped on the bus to the Ring of Brodgar. The site was absolutely magical, 36 standing stones of the original 60 still remain in a perfect circle in the centre of a valley surrounded by hills and sea water loch on one side and fresh water on the other. The land manifested the Neolithic people’s belief systems, our guide told us as we walked around and admired the stones, standing just 20 cm into the ground. Vikings had graffitied some, and one she shared was struck by lightning twice! Burial mounds also dotted the landscape, and one, Maeshowe, is the best preserved passage tomb, which is aligned to the winter solstice.
Kirkwall
We journeyed back to the ship, thoroughly delighted with the Orkneys, had some lunch and then caught the shuttle bus to Kirkwall to be even more delighted.
In the capital of the islands, we explored St Magnus Cathedral, one of the most unusual we’d seen. My mum remarked that it was almost pagan with its carvings. To our delight, we even spotted a Sheela na Gig carving (a female figurine exposing her prominent vulva, thought to be a fertility symbol and found all over Ireland and the UK). We then explored the Orkney Museum, which was packed to the gills with historical objects from Neolithic times to the modern ages (you could spend days in there, but we had like an hour).
Afterwards, we tried some local award-winning whisky at Highland Park Whisky Distillery. Callum and Malcolm helped me choose a dram of their whiskies, all of which are peated using peat made from heather.
Back on the ship, we warmed up in the spa. I also did my first-ever sauna and cold plunge combo, which felt great. Afterwards, we had a chill dinner in the World Cafe after a long day of walking and falling in love with the Orkneys.
Day 5: Edinburgh, Scotland
The capital of Scotland was our destination on day 5 of the Viking British Isles Explorer cruise. Unlike the previous harbours, our ship anchored outside the harbour in Newhaven, so we had to board smaller boats (called tenders) to get ashore.
Edinburgh also boasted plenty of shore excursions on the route, from whisky tasting to exploring Castle Rock and more. However, Viking also allows you the flexibility to explore on your own or hire a private tour guide. My Mum has been to Edinburgh plenty of times before, but it was my first time. Plus, a friend of ours lives in the city, and I hadn’t seen her in years, and she just had a baby, so we opted to explore the city independently, meet up with Lorna and her baby Aila, before getting back on the ship before disembarkation at 4 pm.
Getting ashore
As mentioned, Viking had organised tender boats to get us ashore. Once the passengers who had booked shore excursions were sorted, we boarded the smaller boats from deck A, the lowest deck. It was a smooth ride from the anchored ship to the harbour, and waiting for us there were security and volunteer guides who provided maps and advice on where to go in the city. There was also a shuttle bus organised, so we didn’t have to mess around with public transport.
Once we arrived in the city centre, we made our way to the Royal Mile (Edinburgh has so many stairs) and to the Castle atop Castle Rock. Along the way, we stepped inside St Giles Cathedral to admire the intricate carvings of the Thistle Chapel, listened to a bagpipe player and watched as children held owls with falconers (there are a lot of Harry Potter-isms throughout the city). As we only had a couple of hours, we explored the castle from the outside.
We then went down to Grassmarket and The Vennel and explored the winding streets, alleyways and all the stairs of the city. As a whisky lover, I was insistent on trying a local dram or two. We found a whisky shop (called The Whisky Shop) that \had cask barrels from some famous and local distillers. We had a taste and bought a couple to bring home to my partner. By this time, we were getting peckish, so we went to meet our friend and her baby for lunch.
After catching up and taking plenty of pics for the family chat group, we rushed over to catch the last bus back to the tender boats.
Back on the ship
While sailing back, we got to chatting with some of our fellow passengers. The Californian couple were big fans of Viking (giving it an A and other providers a B-). However, they shared that they weren’t as impressed with Viking’s entertainment. Now, we haven’t really caught a full show yet, so we decided to check one out that evening.
When we returned to our room, our room attendant had returned our laundry. On the lower decks, there is a laundry room that anyone can use. Yesterday, he stopped mum while she was taking our washing down, and insisted on doing it for us. It arrived pressed, wrapped in paper and presented inside a box. IT was like opening a gift.
We made our way to the Port Talk about The Orkneys (tomorrow’s stop and a place neither of us had visited). After which, we enjoyed a cocktail at the Explorer’s Lounge, where the ship’s guitarist, Bea, was playing.
Dinner and a show
For dinner, we returned to The Restaurant, where we enjoyed butter-poached lobster, tender beef ribs, baked oysters, and delectable desserts. Delicious.
Now for the evening’s entertainment. The Viking Voices were performing show tunes in the Star Theatre, which was packed. So instead, we opted to check out Torshavn, the ship’s late-night venue. Bea was performing a solo set and accepting requests. Her voice is fabulous, and she crooned some Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell, and Sarah McLaughlin.
As a former drinks writer, I was keen to explore what other spirits they had on the ship. Torshavn has an incredible collection of rare Armangacs. However, they also had one of my favourite dark rums, Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva, which mum had never tried. Now she has, I think it might have a permanent place in her drinks cabinet back home!
Once Bea finished her set, the Viking Band took to the stage and started off strong with “Proud Mary”. But, despite the lead singer Apple’s incredible dance moves, we had an early shore excursion in the Orkeys, so we had to bid them goodnight.
Day 4: Aberdeen, Scotland
After a very rough night on the North Sea, we made it safe and sound to sunny Aberdeen, Scotland. As we were entering a new country (the UK) and would also be visiting another (the Republic of Ireland), our cruise director directed us to the Star Theatre to have our passports checked. As many on the ship were Americans, their passports were retained by the crew to be stamped for entry into Ireland. However, my mother and I have Irish passports. Therefore, we don’t need visa stamps to enter either the UK or Ireland, so we kept ours.
After a leisurely breakfast at the World Cafe, Mum and I took one of the shuttle buses to Aberdeen. We were planning to explore the Granite City ourselves ahead of our shore excursion tour in the afternoon. We were greeted off the ship by a Scottish dancer and bagpipe player and Aberdeen tourism officials. One of whom, Yvonne, gave us a map and marked her recommended stops for our brief sojourn.
Exploring Aberdeen
We had heard tales of Aberdeen being a sparkling granite city. But I didn’t realise just how much granite was used. Basically, every single building on the main street is made of the material. It creates a sea of sparkling grey on the sunny day.
We explored Provost Skene’s House, which is the oldest surviving townhouse in Aberdeen (from 1545), then visited Marischal College (used to be Aberdeen’s second university between 1593 and 1860, but has since merged), strolled down Union Street, explored the Maritime Museum and visited Aberdeen’s Art Gallery which houses modern art and classical pieces from Scotland and abroad. Some of its highlights are Queen Mary of Scots’ French silver casket, which is thought to have contained her letters and portraits of Queen Victoria and King Albert, who are credited by the gallery as bringing more attention to Scotland during their reign.
After mum picked up her souvenir fridge magnet, we headed back on the shuttle.
Shore Excursion: Aberdeen
We chose to do the included Aberdeen tour as neither of us had been to the city. So, we hopped on a bus with about ten other intrepid explorers to see the sights. We drove outside the city to Machar Cathedral, where, legend says, William Wallace’s arm is buried near a stone star after he was drawn and quartered for treason. Our tour guide was not convinced, but that didn’t stop the group of American tourists of Scottish ancestry snapping plenty of pics!
Afterwards, we travelled to Fittie in Footdee, once a fishing village and now a quaint neighbourhood of quite tiny houses along the beach near Aberdeen. The houses all face inward to a courtyard to foster a sense of community, but also to protect them from the strong waves of the North Sea.
We then went to the University of Aberdeen in a historical part of the city, which, unlike its counterparts, is actually made of sandstone. Following that, we made our way back to the city centre to see more of the city’s sites, including a massive statue of William Wallace outside what our tour guide called “Education, Salvation, and Damnation” i.e. a college, a church, and a theatre. Our final stop was at Duthie Park and its exquisite winter gardens. Inside, we found numerous tropical plants from around the world (including Australia). For those with green thumbs, it was a true delight.
Then we made our way back to the ship in time to set sail to Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital.
Dinner and dancing
We were wrecked after a long day of walking, so we dolled up and tottered down to The Restaurant again. There, we enjoyed some local Angus beef tenderloin. At dinner, the ship’s historian, Geoff Peters and his wife Leanne stopped by to say hello. He was told there were some Australians on the ship, so he wanted to say welcome aboard!
Elsewhere on the ship, there was a barbecue party at the Pool Bar and Grill. We stopped by, and guests were dancing and jiving to a live band. On the bow of the ship in the Explorer’s Lounge, a classical duo was performing modern hits a la Bridgerton. We enjoyed a nightcap at The Bar. There, we watched a couple waltzing as the classical duo (who moved down here after finishing their set upstairs) played music.
Next stop, Edinburgh!
Day 3: Stavanger, Norway
Originally, this cruise route was meant to travel to the Shetland Islands in Scotland. However, the North Sea had different ideas. The inclement weather meant that Viking had to pivot, literally, and instead we journeyed south to Stavanger in Norway. The country’s fourth-largest city is known as the “oil capital”, which is the main industry of the city. One of the shore excursions was to the oil museum about the industry and its impacts on the lives of Norwegians. However, my mum and I wanted to see some fjords, so we did the optional Pulpit Rock tour.
Shore excursion: Pulpit Rock
We got up bright and early for our 7.45 meeting time, grabbed a quick breakfast at the World Cafe and set sail on an albeit smaller boat to Lysefjord and Pulpit Rock.
This tour was brilliant and a fine alternative to Shetland ponies (just about!). Our tour guide gave us some great insights into Norwegian life, and specifically for those in Stavanger. Also, the scenery was breathtaking. The rain mostly stayed away, and despite the near-freezing temperatures, many of us went out onto the deck to snap some pics of our stunning surroundings. We also enjoyed a pitstop with coffee and traditional Norwegian waffles served with sour cream and jam. Delish!
Exploring Stavanger
We had a couple of hours after we returned to shore. So, we decided to explore Stavanger. We strolled through the Øvre Holmegate (a historic neighbourhood with white houses and quaint wooden shops) and Stavanger Cathedral (Domkirke), which is over 900 years old. Then, we tasted some Norwegian “brown cheese” at a local deli. We had heard a bit about this curious local cuisine. Our Pulpit Rock tour guide had described it as sweet and savoury, and we had spotted it on a couple of menus.
Think of it as the cheese version of brown butter. But instead of it being nutty, it’s more of a savoury umami flavour. Neither of us particularly enjoyed it, to be honest. To each their own!
Setting sail for Scotland
Back on the ship, we went for lunch in the Pool Cafe, classic burger fare. And it was one of the best burgers I have had in a while (or maybe my palate appreciated the change after the brown cheese). Afterwards, I went for a workout in the gym, and Mum read a book in one of the main lounges.
By this point, we had set sail for Scotland, and we finally experienced the North Sea. It’s not gentle. The waves were powerful, and the ship was rocking and bobbing, and many on board (myself included) started feeling its effects. However, the staff were fantastic, handing out seasickness tabs and helping their more mature guests traverse the common areas.
We were in for a rough night, but looking forward to Aberdeen in the morning. Ha det, Norge!
Day 2: Bergen, Norway
The first official day of our cruise begins in Bergen. We had booked a shore excursion for the afternoon, so we opted to spend our morning at the Nordic Spa. So, after enjoying breakfast at the World Cafe, which had many options for every kind of palate, from Texas French toast and biscuits and gravy for the Americans to Norwegian fare for those who wanted to sample some local cuisine (the Texas French toast was divine).
After having our fill, we put on our swimmers and our dressing gown and headed down to the spa. Inside the main area, there is a thermal pool (complete with water jets), a hot tub, a steam room, a meditation area, and a snow grotto. In the separate changing rooms, you will also find a sauna and a cold plunge pool. The thermal pool was lovely, not too hot at all, but plenty relaxing. As usual, you are advised to shower before you enter the pool, steam room or snow grotto. However, instead of a standard shower, there are two experimental showers. One with multiple shower heads with adjustable temperature. And the other is a simple water bucket, which was, of course, my favourite (as a lover of a classic bush shower).
After a relaxing morning in the spa, we figured that we had our swimsuits on, so let’s check out the main pool. On deck seven, around the corner from the World Cafe, that’s where you’ll find the main pool, pool bar and grill. The pool is also heated and fairly deep. Perfect for getting in a couple of lengths. Once we’d had our fill, we went back to our rooms to shower, change and get ready for our walking tour of Bergen.
Shore excursion: Walking tour
Unlike other cruise providers, Viking offers a complimentary shore excursion at every port. In Bergen, there was a walking tour. We met our guide, Mathieu, at the port terminal to begin our walking tour. Unfortunately, we arrived on one of the 260 days of the year when it rains in Bergen, and some of our travel companions were not dressed for the inclement weather. So it ended up being just six of us walking through the old Viking and Hanseatic port town of Bergen and Bryggen, led by Mathieu. In addition to providing a great guide to the history of the area, as a resident, Mathieu also gave his own recommendations for eating and drinking.
One of those locales was Fjåk Chocolate, a hot chocolate cafe. Now, my mother and I wouldn’t be hot chocolate drinkers, but we thought, why not try the local fare (plus it was fairly cold, and we were drenched). However, the hot chocolate was delicious. I went for the 60 per cent Haitian dark chocolate, and mum opted for the 45 per cent milk chocolate variety. But, for those with a sweet tooth, there were also options for spiced gingerbread hot chocolates, matcha variations, plus coffees and sweet treats.
Preparing to set sail
Back on the ship, the crew were getting things ready to set sail. After we dried off following our shore excursion, we decided to play a game of Scrabble in the games room area (were mum totally thrashed me). While there, the safety drill happened. Nothing major, just the alarm and a safety announcement. By then, it was 4 pm, so we checked out the afternoon tea in the Wintergarden area. It was absolutely packed, so we joined a couple from Washington state and another woman from Wisconsin. Turns out they were Viking veterans and adored the cruise line.
The tea itself was quite lovely. There was a tea menu to choose from (I went for spiced cinnamon, whereas mum went for Earl Grey). Classic high tea fare of scones and mini sandwiches was provided as well, which we enjoyed while listening to our new American friends wax lyrical about their high seas adventures with Viking.
Dinner and a show
Afterwards, we got ready for dinner in The Restaurant, which is the main restaurant on deck two. There’s a dress code: elegant casual. It essentially means no jeans and no thongs. Men wear shirts and trousers, women wear dresses or shirts and pants and a nice top.
The menu changes every night. It always features a chef’s choice, which is inspired by traditional dishes of the port cities the ship is in. There are also some classic options like steak and fries available every night. My mum and I were blown away by the food quality and service.
We had the same starters and mains, but differed on the dessert: chicken curry croquette starter (which was essentially an Indian-curry-filled arancini ball), then duck breast with blueberry sauce and the most incredible carrot mash for amin. For dessert, I had the espresso mousse (yum), and Mum got the creme brule. We paired our meal with a lovely French Syrah. As we were eating, the ship reached further into open waters, and the swaying started!
To officially start the cruise journey, the captain hosted a Welcome Reception at the Star Theatre. He introduced all the senior staff, including the on-board historian who’s from Queensland, and the musical guests. After some fabulous musical performances, we went to bed for a nightcap. Early start tomorrow!
Day One: Bergen, Norway
As I was travelling from Australia, I arrived in Bergen, our first port, the day before disembarkation. And as my mother was joining me from Ireland, she and my father enjoyed a couple of days in Bergen together before I arrived. Our visits are normally confined to Christmas time and weddings, so enjoying a reindeer hotdog or Norwegian beer together (both delicious by the way) was a welcome change!
However, if you decide to go on this cruise, you can arrive on the day of the cruise. Viking can organise a shuttle from the airport (which is about 40-45 minutes away). As I said, I was coming from Australia, so I appreciated an extra night to adjust to the time zone.
Check-in
As I have never been on a cruise, I wasn’t sure what to expect when it came to the check-in process. But it was seamless. Ahead of the cruise, Viking has posted our luggage tags. We simply had to attach those, and as soon as we arrived at the port, their staff took them away, with promises that they would be brought to our staterooms (they were). As my mother and I are both European citizens, passport control at the port was also very easy. But it wasn’t much more difficult for other nationalities. We noticed they had to have their photo taken, like you’d get at passport control at an airport.
I had brought along a copy of The Australian Women’s Weekly, and while I was searching for my boarding pass, the woman next to me spotted it. Turned out she was also there from Australia, Aly and her partner Dave were also sailing with Viking for the first time, although they weren’t complete novices like us.
The crew greeted us on board with sparkling wine and juices. We then listened to our safety demonstrations before the crew invited us to relax while our rooms were being prepared. We had a quick look around the Living Room (lobby) and took advantage of our Silver Spirits Package with a cocktail before our orientation tour.
Orientation tour
Although it’s a smaller cruise ship, it’s not exactly small. There are nine decks (aka floors), and venues are located on decks one, two, and seven.
Wes, the head of client services, took a group of other first-timers around (including our new Aussie friends). Decks (floors) one and two are where the restaurants are. There are around eight to choose from. The Chef’s Table is a higher-end degustation-style venue with wine pairing and a more formal dress code — no jeans, please. Next door is Manfreddi’s, an Italian restaurant. Upstairs on Deck Two is the aptly named “The Restaurant”. Casual dining can be found on Deck 7 at the World Cafe, a buffet-style eatery with plenty of food options. There is also The Pool Grill by one of the pools, plus afternoon tea is served in the Wintergarden.
Beyond food, there are multiple pools, a spa (complete with thermal pool, snow grotto and sauna), a gym, and plenty of bars to choose from. Mum and I tried to make a mental map before heading back to our rooms to sort our bags and our shore excursions.
Our room
Luckily, we were upgraded! So our twin-bed stateroom had a bit more space than we anticipated. The room is well-furnished with plenty of natural elements such as wood panelling and leather on the door handles. We also have a balcony and a seating area — great for when you have to write while on a trip! Staff greeted us and gave us a tour of the stateroom and its amenities (including the bathroom’s heated floors and the minibar that’s restocked daily and included in the fare).
Dinner
We kept it simple on our first night and opted to dine at World Cafe. As mentioned, there is plenty to choose from, from Asian fare to risottos, local cuisine to Italian specialities. After dining on risotto and salmon with paired wines, followed by a cheese board, we headed back to our stateroom to rest up before our first shore excursion tomorrow in Bergen. Check back in then!
The author was a guest of Viking Cruises.
