Peace and quiet, warm hospitality and piercingly blue lagoons … welcome to the Cook Islands, your new favourite tropical holidays escape.
You can hear it the instant the first cluster of palm trees appears as we descend into Rarotonga International Airport. There’s a sigh of pleasure reverberating through the plane. Smiles widen and tightly wound muscles loosen… and that’s before we even get into the terminal. Inside, we’re serenaded by a beaming singer and his ukulele, laying the foundations for a holiday that’s pure medicine for the soul.
The Cook Islands, a 15-island archipelago around six hours’ flight from Sydney, is becoming an increasingly desirable destination for Australians seeking tropical relaxation without the bustle of Bali or the resort polish of Fiji. For all too long, New Zealanders have kept this gorgeous Pacific gem to themselves. But with direct flights now available from Brisbane and Sydney to Rarotonga, more and more Aussies are putting the Cook Islands at the top of their must-visit list.
Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Although Rarotonga, the main island, is dotted with shops and eateries at regular intervals, it never loses its village feel. We base ourselves on the south side at Muri Beach, which is blessed with an expansive lagoon. This allows us to stumble out of bed and into the tranquil waters from our self-contained unit at Muri Beachcomber. We spend most days paddling across the lagoon on kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, looking for turtles and gazing at myriad colourful fish through snorkelled eyes.
When we’re ready to go further afield, we catch the $5 bus that circles the island. We hop off in the capital, Avarua, on the north side. After wandering through Punanga Nui Market, sampling food and people-watching, we head to Ride Rarotonga. With a 50km/h speed limit and a population of considerate drivers, biking is a safe and relaxing way to explore the 32km circumference of the island. We take our time pedalling with the ocean breeze, stopping to swim in secluded coves and eating our body weight in delicious New Zealand ice-cream.
What to eat
Kiosk-like eateries with outdoor dining are the best way to enjoy island fare. In Muri, Saigon Shack serves up mouth-watering Vietnamese food, while Takitumu Tapas specialises in seafood tacos with a festive atmosphere. Rarotonga Sailing Club, a local institution overlooking the lagoon, is a fabulous place to while away an afternoon with hot chips and cold drinks in hand. Just out of town, Maire Nui Gardens and Café is known for delicious wholesome fare in a tropical garden setting, with food grown on-site.
Every visitor raves about Muri Night Market, and for good reason. It’s a low-key, high-vibe dining experience open most nights. There are options to please even the most indecisive diner (the garlic prawns were my pick).
On the north side, grab a pizza and beer on the deck at Trader Jacks. If you’re lucky, you might spot humpback whales on their annual migration.
For something a little fancier, Tamarind House, a short walk away, pairs beautiful seafood fare with enviable water views.
Aitutaki, Cook Islands
You haven’t seen the Cooks until you’ve seen Aitutaki, the second-most-visited island. Reached via a short flight from Rarotonga, stunning Aitutaki (pronounced eye-two-tark-e) is known for its dreamy lagoon. This is the jewel in the Cooks crown. A utopia of jaw-dropping crystalline waters and shallow, piercing-white-sand islets that always dazzles, even on an overcast day.
The Vaka Cruise, with its 21-metre catamaran and sun loungers, is a popular way to travel the lagoon. However, we opt for the more laid-back Teking Lagoon Tours, with a smaller boat that allows us to reach lesser-visited spots. As well as stops at three ‘motus’ (islets) – including kite-surfing-mecca Honeymoon Island and picture-perfect One Foot Island – there’s ample time for donning snorkel masks and marvelling at purple coral and giant trevally almost wider than our handspans. We’re still buzzing by the time we head to the Pacific Resort restaurant for a meal later, ready for a dreamy tropical cocktail.
For adventurous travellers
Should you tire of the ocean (it does happen eventually), those with a thirst for adventure and dramatic views should head inland for the Cross Island Trek. This walk inclines towards The Needle – the volcanic centre of the island. The trek is reached by traversing jungle and streams, bypassing Wigmore’s Waterfall on the descent, and is best approached from the north side. However, it’s not for the faint-hearted. In parts it’s less trek than crawl-while-grasping-onto-ropes, and The Needle itself is best attempted if you have serious rock-climbing skills.
If you prefer something more sedate and culturally minded, book a guided Raemaru Mountain Trek tour. It includes a visit to an ancient village. Too weary to walk? Opt for a Safari Tour and be chauffeured by jeep.
Cook Islands holidays: choose your excitement level
Level: cultural chill
Book a progressive dinner tour in residents’ homes, to soak up the warmth of Cook Islands hospitality and cuisine on you holiday. Attend a church service on Sunday and feel your heart swell from the power of the harmonies. Give back by volunteering to walk rescue dogs at the SPCA Animal Shelter.
Level: off track
Head to lesser-known islands with a three-night tour of limited-access island Atiu. You’ll be trekking through rainforests and limestone caves, and gazing at brightly coloured tropical birds. Further afield, fly to Mitiaro. It’s one of the most remote islands in the Pacific Ocean, to explore pristine pools and caves.
Level: ocean elite
Enjoy a sea scooter (a handheld motorised device that propels you underwater) tour in Rarotonga to get up close to turtles. You’ll need to book well in advance. Fly to Aitutaki Lagoon Private Island Resort and stay in an overwater bungalow – it’s easy to forget the rest of the world exists.
Tips for Cook Islands Holidays
- Car and scooter hire are available, but on Rarotonga, you can get by with taxis, bikes or the bus, which circles the island in either direction for $5.
- Book ahead for tours using an eSIM – tour operators are more likely to answer the phone than respond to emails. Many restaurants and tour operators are closed on Sundays. Find eSim options here.
- Reduce plastic bottle waste by choosing accommodation that provides filtered water, and refilling your own bottle for each day’s outings.
- Pack earplugs (unless you enjoy being woken by the Cooks’ roosters). See some of our recommendations here.
- Jetstar flies direct to Rarotonga International Airport from Brisbane and Sydney, or you can fly via Auckland with Air New Zealand.
The article originally appeared in the May 2026 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly. Subscribe so you never miss an issue.
