When productivity guru David Allen said ‘you can do anything but not everything’, he may not have been thinking about skincare per se, but the same theory applies – learn your complexion limits, because too much of a good thing can cause skin confusion. Chaos. Burnout even.
“More is not always more,” says dermatologist Dr Katherine Armour who created her own line of products, Bespoke Skin Technology, as an antidote to our insatiable appetite for multi-step routines that can lead to overdose. “I so often see women who have been doubling and tripling on alpha hydroxy acids and using Vitamin c, glycolic acid and retinoids only to end up with perioral dermatitis. Even young, healthy skin can’t handle that much!”
The alternative? Microdosing: the art of applying precise low-dose skincare actives…not too little, not too much, just right, as Goldilocks would have it. Small daily doses is a therapeutic way to deliver hard-working ingredients like retinol and exfoliating acids without having to ‘train’ the skin to cope so as to avoid dramatic flare-ups, redness or irritation.
But here’s the complicating factor: there is no one magic dose size. “All ingredients have a concentration range at which they have been demonstrated to work in vitro and in vivo,” says Dr. Timothy Falla, Senior Vice President of Research and Development at Paula’s Choice. “Some actives need to be greater than 10 per cent and others less than 0.1 per cent.” First time users of retinol can microdose with 0.1 per cent (certainly no more than 0.3 per cent) but vitamin C works best at a higher concentration (up to 10 per cent).
Acids are also not a one-size-fits all. Water-soluble Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) will decongest dry skin and improve surface texture at concentrations around 8 per cent, but Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s) are oil-soluble, so they dive deeper into pores and clear congestion at a much lower concentration (less than 2 per cent).
Microdosing does require patience – give it three months before you judge whether your chosen actives are making a difference. If it feels like your skin has adjusted and you’re beginning to plateau, you can always up the concentration just a fraction.
There is just one product you should never microdose: sunscreen. Use it on the daily and more than you think, as the recommendation is a whopping one heaped teaspoon for your face.
Susan Yara, the founder of Naturium, says consistency is the single most important thing for healthy skin. “People want to find one thing, something that is an easy fix so it’s done,” says Susan. “But our skin is dynamic. What is really important is getting the basics like vitamin C and retinol right and then being consistent.”
Maintaining skin health is a long-term game and microdosing means you can pace yourself. “What you apply to your skin every day has more of an impact on how it looks and feels than anything else you do,” says Dr Tim. “Skin health is most definitely a marathon.”
“More is not always more. It’s choosing well and selecting ingredients to target your skin concerns.” – Dr Katherine Armour
Everyday heroes
Like a daily multivitamin for your face, Bespoke Skin Technology Luminosity Revive & Refine Serum, $145, contains bakuchiol, a gentler retinoid alternative, as well as a healthy dose of vitamin B (niacinamide) and lactic acid to improve skin texture and tone.
When a product lives up to its name! Urban Jungle The G.O.A.T. Face Serum, $46, is a true all-rounder (vitamin C, vitamin B and a little glycolic acid to gently exfoliate skin).
Paula’s Choice Triple Active Total Repair Serum, $79, contains a gentle form of retinol, plus vitamin B to improve skin tone.
Fine lines
With just 0.01 per cent retinaldehyde, Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1, $89, will help you tip toe into the skin-smoothing effects of retinol. Use overnight.
Vitamin C works in tandem with peptides to treat lines and wrinkles. Aveda Advanced Botanical Kinetics Vitality Serum, $105.
Cushioned by lipids to make it more palatable to sensitive skin (a spoonful of sugar makes the medicine go down!), Kiehls Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum, $161, contains a small dose of pure retinol.
Olay Regenerist Ultra Firming Serum, $69.99, offers a steady daily dose of texture-smoothing bakuchiol, a gentler form of vitamin A.
Oily and combination skin will love the silky soft finish of Beauté Pacifique Defy Damage Skin Repair Serum, $80, a vitamin A-enriched treat for skin.
Adult acne
Prone to breakouts but also have sensitive skin? iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance+, $161, strikes a good balance at 0.1% retinol.
Sothys Dermo Booster Purifying Serum, $85, contains gentle PHA (an acid) that can help clear blemishes without drying out your skin.
Pigmentation
The Body Shop Vitamin C Glow Revealing Serum, $59, hits the sweet spot with 10% vitamin C.
Naturium Vit C Complex Serum, $39, brightens and lightens with antioxidant-rich fruit extracts.
La Roche Posay Pure Vitamin C12 Brightening Serum, $75.99, is ideal for oily skin types with sun spots.
Extremely stubborn pigmentation can benefit from a once-a-day dose of Clear Skincare Pigment Perfect Serum with 3% Transexamic Acid, $60.
Or target dark spots directly with DermaAngel Acne Lightening Patches, $8.99.
Barrier repair
If you have overdosed on actives and caused irritation, focus on strengthening and repairing the skin barrier before you introduce microdosing.
The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum, $29.10, contains soothing vitamin B12 to reduce dryness and the look of redness.
Vanessa Megan Blue Tansy Cypress Anti-Redness Soothing Serum, $69.95, is deliciously soothing on skin thanks to calming chamomile, cucumber and Blue Tansy.
Try SkinCeuticals Phyto Corrective Gel Soothing Serum, $127, is an instant hydration boost with hyaluronic acid and cucumber balanced with comforting thyme and olive leaf.
Rationale #1 The Serum, $206, is rich in vitamin B. Best for combination skin (oily in the T-Zone).
This article originally appeared in the April 2026 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly. Pick up the latest issue of the magazine at your local newsagents or subscribe so you never miss an issue.
