When hair stylist Lauren Mackellar first began looking for natural solutions to hair thinning and how to reverse hair loss, she had no inkling of the cruel twist of fate that was to come.
In her twenties with a flourishing career in Sydney and Los Angeles, she put her own hair loss down to stress.
“It was something that really affected my confidence. I laugh when I think about it now, but I tried so hard to hide it from everyone because I was so worried about what people thought about me losing my hair at that age. We associate thick hair with health, vitality and attractiveness, even if it is a subconscious thought.”
In hindsight, Lauren sees her initial hair loss as a blessing, as it prompted her to experiment with natural herbs and supplements. “I wish I could go back in time and tell myself that it would all be worth it in the end because, if I hadn’t had that hair loss experience, I don’t think I would have felt so strongly about creating Robe [her haircare range].”
Halfway through the process of formulating and testing Robe samples, Lauren was delivered some devastating news: The chronic migraines she had been suffering were due to a rare brain tumour that would require surgery, radiation and a year of chemotherapy – a treatment program that would hopefully save her life but not her hair.
“It took three weeks for my hair to start falling out. In that time, I started to believe that maybe it wasn’t going to happen. So when it did, I was beside myself. I lost about 60 per cent of my hair in one day.”
To maintain some optimism, Lauren imagined she was a phoenix rising from the ashes. “I told myself that my hair was my feathers and that really helped remind myself that it was a necessary part of my healing and recovery, instead of something to be upset about. It was such a good lesson for me, it made me realise even more just how important our hair is to us, to our mindset.”
That is something hair loss studies also confirm. “Hair loss affects confidence and even the ability to participate in activities,” says Chelcey Salinger, a consultant trichologist at the Australian Trichology Centre in Sydney and Adelaide. “I have had patients who have really wanted to go swimming with their friends but couldn’t for fear of their hair getting wet and their hair loss being evident.”
One study found a bidirectional link between hair loss and depression – having a major depressive disorder leads to a 90 per cent higher risk of developing hair loss, while those suffering hair loss have a 34 per cent higher risk of developing depression.
There are many reasons your hair might start to thin out – menopause, thyroid issues, stress, medications and genetics, to name a few, but it could also indicate a nutritional deficiency (particularly iron) or gut health issues.
“In general, a poor diet very much affects the hair,” says Chelcey. “We now realise the importance of vitamin D3 levels to normal hair growth. As the levels of D3 reduce when estrogen levels reduce, you may need to supplement. There have also been many studies linking the consumption of high-sugar snacks with hair loss, in particular with thinning on top.”
Chronic stress can also cause changes in the gut, which can contribute to hair loss. “A large proportion of our immune system is in our gut, so having a well-balanced microbiome to support our immune system to perform better makes us less likely to experience autoimmune hair loss conditions or scalp problems,” says Chelcey.
The hardest type to fight is genetic pattern hair loss, which women commonly experience as a widening of their part and a change in hair texture.
“We call it miniaturisation of the hair,” says Chelcey. “It becomes finer, and the hair follicle itself becomes smaller and decreases in its depth into the skin. Eventually, the hairs become so fine they are imperceivable, and, at the final stage, there is a complete loss of the hair and its follicle. Once that happens, hair will never grow in that place again.”
That process is usually driven by an androgen hormone (dihydrotestosterone or DHT) in the skin, which you can try to block with a product applied directly on the scalp. That will slow down the hair loss, but you will need to use it every day forever.
“Due to the long-term nature of treatment, many women like to opt for natural DHT blockers like the herb saw palmetto, which reduces the conversion of testosterone to DHT,” explains Chelcey. “An effective treatment will not just halt the thinning process, but also allow for thickening of the hairs that have become finer.”
For Lauren, the results of her hair transformation have surprised even her specialists. “I knew from my career as a hairdresser that most of the time after chemotherapy, the hair grows back looking grey and wispy, and sometimes quite coarse in texture from the oxidative nature of the treatment. After six weeks of using Robe’s The Tonic, I noticed baby hairs sprouting, which was quite incredible considering I was well in the swing of chemo at the time.”
As we speak, 18 months later, her hair is a healthy chocolate brown with no greys in sight.
“To everyone’s surprise, it looks thicker and healthier than it ever has.”
Reverse hair loss tips
Top tool tips
Start from the bottom and put your other hand on the scalp to reduce pressure on the follicles.
Use a brush that has both natural boar bristles (which are flexible, so they don’t stress the strands as much) and nylon bristles (for a mini follicle massage).
Try Bachca Wooden Detangling and Smoothing Brush with Boar & Nylon Bristles. Hair is more vulnerable when wet, so use a brush specifically designed to gently remove knots, such as Ugly Swan Wet Scream-Free Hair Brush.
Hair dye tips
While lightening with peroxide or ammonia is a no-go for weak hair, celebrity colourist and director of La Boutique, Belinda Jeffrey, says a stain, water rinse, or gloss can add depth and shine without damage.
“Darkening can create a thicker appearance as it gives the illusion of density. Semi- or demi-permanent colours coat hair, preventing damage.”
Hair Growth Heroes
Give your locks a helping hand with these formulations for growth, strength and vitality.
01
Hairification Pure Grow Treatment
from $20 $16 at Adore Beauty
Designed to fit in with your usual haircare regime, this super-concentrated treatment aims to nourish thinning hair.
One reviewer commented: “My scalp does feel very clean and free of buildup, and I’m in my 50’s and all about treating my hair and scalp in order to maintain it post menopause after watching my mothers heat and product ravaged hair fall out late in life.”
Key features:
- Australian made
- Promotes natural hair growth and aims to reduce thinning.
- Infused with natural ingredients.
- Non-greasy formula
- Best used with Hairification Pure Grow Shampoo and Conditioner
Available at:
02
OGX ProGrowth + Peptide range
from $20.99 at Chemist Warehouse
If you’re in the market for an optimised haircare routine to help reduce air thinning, check out this new range. It’s designed for people with fine, thinning or fragile hair. The range centres on scalp health and strand strengthening.
03
Nioxin Night Density Rescue Serum
from $55.20 at Adore Beauty
Designed as an overnight leave-in scalp treatment, the serum aims to support thicker-looking, fuller hair while you sleep. Its formula combines caffeine, ginger root extract and lauric acid, alongside antioxidant ingredients designed to help protect the scalp from oxidative stress, which Nioxin says can contribute to hair fall and thinning.
Key features:
- Clinically tested to reduce hair fall.
- Dermatologically tested
- Overnight leave-on treatment
- Infused with natural ingredients.
Available at:
04
Dermal Therapy Hair Restoring Serum
from $25.99 $15.39 at Chemist Warehouse
If you’re looking for an affordable hair-thickening treatment that sits somewhere between a cosmetic serum and a more targeted scalp treatment, Dermal Therapy Hair Restoring Serum has quietly built a loyal following in Australian pharmacies. Designed for thinning, brittle or fragile hair, the leave-on serum uses a blend of vitamins, minerals and Redensyl™ — a plant-based ingredient often found in modern hair-density products — to help support fuller-looking hair and reduce breakage.
Key features:
- Vitamin B-complex and RedensylTM
- Leave-in, non-greasy product
- Plant-based stem cell technology
Available at:
This article originally appeared in the March 2024 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly. Subscribe so you never miss an issue.
