It’s no secret that hair changes as we age, just like anything else involving our body. So, if your routine hasn’t adapted, then you’re doing everything wrong.
This is a hard, and sometimes expensive, lesson to learn. But if there’s anything I’ve discovered during my hair journey, it is to never neglect your scalp. All those oils and treatments put into the ends of your hair are wasted without a proper foundation.
My hair health journey has taken years, and it’s one I’m still learning. But I’ve discovered a few tips and tricks, which means I’m the family beauty guru. Plus, having access to industry experts like certified trichologist Jaye Brand, who has more than 20 years experience, certainly helps.
And, I’m not gatekeeping these secrets.
The Weekly asked Jaye a whole lot of questions about taking care of grey hair, common hair concerns, and what to avoid. So, with these tips and my own experience combined, we are delving into the intricating world of scalp care.
What are the signs of an unhealthy scalp?
J: Signs of an unhealthy scalp can include itching, flaking, redness, sensitivity and excess oiliness. One of the biggest misconceptions I see is that all flakes mean a dry scalp. In many cases, flaking is actually linked to excess oil and build up, and adding more oils can make the problem worse.
I recently tested the new Kerasilk range, targeting scalp care with new and reinspired formulas including AHA, Ectoin, and Niacinamide. It’s also PETA-certified and vegan, which is a huge tick! The range includes two important scalp serums for your journey, depending on your scalp type: Moisturising Scalp Drops and Anti-Dandruff Scalp Serum.
The former is a lightweight, leave-in serum designed to provide hydration to dry scalp skin. Meanwhile, the latter helps regulate an oily scalp and removes types of dandruff. With my oily-prone straight hair, the Moisturising Scalp Drops were too heavy, but the Anti-Dandruff Scalp Serum was more down my alley. So, this is a key example of why it’s important to learn more about your hair type before purchasing products!
Hair and scalp health changes as women get older. How should women adjust their routine as they age?
J: As women age, it’s important to recognise that the needs of both the scalp and hair can change. The routine that worked in your twenties often isn’t the routine your hair needs in your fifties or sixties. I encourage women to place greater focus on scalp health through regular cleansing, hydration and supporting overall wellbeing with good nutrition, quality sleep and stress management. These factors all play an important role in supporting healthy hair as we age.
As Jaye points out, we can’t stop the natural changes that come with aging, but we can create the best possible environment.
I leapt at the chance to test Kerasilk’s Exfoliating Scalp & Hair Treatment, and it didn’t disappoint. Having an oily scalp, I am washing my hair twice in just one shower. But having a pre-shampoo treatment to rid that stubborn product buildup, oil and dead skin, was exactly what my scalp needed. And, you only need to do this twice a week!
Grey hairs can feel coarse and wiry. Can proper scalp care improve the texture and colour of greys?
J: Grey hair doesn’t just lose colour, it undergoes structural changes too. As pigment declines, the hair often becomes drier, less flexible and more difficult to manage, which is why grey hairs can feel coarse or wiry. Many people think grey hair has become thicker, but often what they’re noticing is a change in texture.
J: While scalp care won’t reverse established greying, it can improve the quality and manageability of grey hair by supporting scalp health and maintaining moisture. For premature greying, nutritional factors may also be worth exploring, as nutrients such as vitamin B12 and iron play a role in healthy hair function.
Now, you may be thinking: What does a woman in her 20s (me) know about grey hairs? But I’ve struggled with stress-induced greys popping through since I was a teenager. Surprisingly, my mums advice to just “stress less” didn’t work. While I’m not going completely grey, those few wiry grey hairs are my nemesis – or they were. One product that significantly improved my hair texture was the Keratase Genesis Anti-Fall Serum.
Technically, this serum is designed to support hair growth and reduces hair fall out – which it does so brilliantly. But it is also a beautiful blend of vitamins and texture enhancing iris root extract. Unfortunately for my bank account, this product is worth every penny.
What ingredients should women look for in shampoos, conditioners and treatments?
J: I encourage women not to get caught up in chasing the latest trending ingredient. The most important thing is choosing products that are suited to your scalp type and concern.
J: For the scalp I look for ingredients that support hydration, comfort and a healthy scalp barrier. Ingredients such as Niacinamide, Ectoin, gentle exfoliating acids and hydrating ingredients can all play a role in supporting a healthy scalp environment, while protein and lipids can improve hair strength, softness and manageability. There is rarely one hero ingredient responsible for healthy hair, it is usually the result of a well-balanced routine.
When testing the Kerasilk range, I tried two shampoos: the reparing shampoo and the sensitive shampoo. With both shampoos, my hair felt so soft and didn’t tangle as easily. However, with the moisturising shampoo, the oil built-up faster on my scalp. If you’re struggling with a dry scalp, this could be the option for you.
Also, remember to avoid washing your hair in hot water! The hot water quickly dries out the strands, leaving you with frizzy and fluffy hair. Although, I’m struggling with taking my own advice on this one because a hot shower at the end of the day is the only thing beating my winter blues.
Which viral hair trends are helpful, and which are overhyped?
J: The growing focus on scalp health is one trend I’m excited to see because we are starting to treat the scalp with the same care and attention we give our skin. Increased awareness around heat protection is another positive shift. On the other hand, some trends become oversimplified online. Hair oiling isn’t suitable for every scalp type and can sometimes worsen oily or flaky scalp conditions. The idea that you can train your scalp to produce less oil by avoiding washing isn’t supported by strong evidence. Oil production is largely influenced by genetics and hormones. For many people delaying washing for too long can lead to more scalp discomfort and build up.
J: Caffeine shampoos are another example. While the ingredient itself is interesting, shampoos simply don’t remain on the scalp long enough to deliver the same benefits as a leave in treatment.
Heat protectant is a must if you are using any sort of heating products including a hairdryer, straighten tool or curler. A trick that some use to test if their heat protectant actually works is spraying it on a piece of toast, and seeing how burnt it gets! Peculiar method, but effective.
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