On the drive from the airport to the aptly named Grand Hotel Bucharest, I realised afresh that my knowledge of Eastern Europe was pretty sketchy. I had read Olivia Manning’s Fortunes of War a couple of years ago – a compelling fictional series that begins in pre-World War II Bucharest – and visited Sofia and Budapest several years before that. But I had no idea what the region was like today.
Many volumes have been written about the ever-changing geopolitical landscapes of what is variously known as the Balkans, the Balkan Peninsula, and Eastern and Southeast Europe. With human history dating back 44,000-odd years, through tribal and Roman times to 500-plus years of Ottoman Empire rule, Soviet communism, two world wars and numerous civil wars, there’s a lot to take on board.
And while an 11-day Viking cruise can only scratch the surface, knowledgeable and entertaining guides in every town and city gave us new insights. It was a wonderful journey of discovery of places that are a world away from over-touristed European hot spots. Here are some of the highlights.
Ruse, Bulgaria
Sometimes called “Little Vienna”, Ruse has a road and railway bridge across the Danube – one of two connecting bridges between different countries over the Danube – and is an incredibly picturesque, elegant city. Streets are lined with impressive buildings in a melange of architectural styles. Religious sites coexist peacefully; the 17th-century Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral is as at home in Ruse as the churches of various denominations, mosques and synagogues.
Cafe society is alive and well here, and Ruse is a significant cultural hub that boasts schools and universities that produce experts in theatre, maths, ballet and opera. A must-visit is the Regional Museum of History, where you can see artefacts dating back to prehistoric times. The stunning Borovo Treasure exhibit will have you amazed by what the Thracians were doing between the 5th century BC and the 1st century AD.
The Iron Gates gorge
Although the river looks peaceful today, before it was dammed in the 1960s-70s this scenic stretch of the Danube between the Carpathian and Balkan mountains was a navigator’s nightmare. Treacherous rapids wrecked hundreds of ships and although the dam improved access for all shipping, it also caused thousands of people to be forced out of their villages. Without dwelling on the tragic stories, sailing slowly through the Iron Gates gorge, accompanied by program director David’s expert commentary (and Bloody Marys all round served by the excellent maître d’, Zeljko, on the Viking Ullur) provided yet another unforgettable glimpse into this region’s multi-layered history.
Belgrade, Serbia
At the “White City”, so named for its imposing Belgrade Fortress, my cruise companion and I were met by good friends, Belgrade citizens Vanja and Violetta, who whisked us off to the Kalemegdan fortress. We whiled away several sunny hours walking and taking in the stunning views over the Sava and Danube rivers.
Sadly, we couldn’t enter the fortress’s torture museum (they didn’t take Serbian dinars) but another form of torture was awaiting: shopping. The walk from the fortress to Belgrade’s attractive, pedestrianised centre is far too easy for shopaholics, and within minutes Italian handbags and shoes were scooped up at very reasonable prices by our keen shoppers. Post retail therapy we enjoyed a late lunch in a restaurant in a cobbled side street, sampling Serbian specialities such as cevapi with ajvar (grilled meat with red pepper sauce), palačinke (pancakes) and burek (filled pastries).
Puszta, Hungary
Horsemanship is one of Hungary’s most honoured traditions. Nomadic warriors from Asia rode into what’s now the Great Hungarian Plain some 1000 years ago and their strong, intelligent horses and skilled riders have been part of the country’s agricultural, military and sporting cultures ever since.
An afternoon at the Bakodpuszta Equestrian Center, a short drive from the port town of Kalocsa, showcases some extraordinary feats. Have you ever seen a horse sitting on its bum like a dog? Well, you will there – and the commentary explains why. The performances were thrilling and a man riding a small donkey provided a comic turn.
Budapest, Hungary
Even if you’ve visited this breathtakingly beautiful city before, there is always more to explore. A panoramic bus tour is great for getting orientated: it winds back and forth over bridges between the two sides, Buda and Pest. Once you know where you are going, it’s easy to take trams, buses and the funicular on your own. Buda is home to the grand Castle District, which includes the imperial Buda Castle, turreted Fisherman’s Bastion and colourful Matthias Church. You can watch the hourly change of guard at the castle and see some amazing art in the Hungarian National Gallery.
On the Pest side is the unmistakable parliament building, the magnificent Opera House, a 19th-century covered market, Europe’s biggest synagogue at Dohány Street and the nearby atmospheric “ruin pubs”.
Viking’s 11-day Passage to Eastern Europe package starts from $7695 per person, twin share. Book by November 15, 2024, for included return flights on Viking’s 2025-2027 river voyages. See vikingrivercruises.com.au
This article originally appeared in the October 2024 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly. Pick up the latest issue from your local newsagent, or subscribe so you never miss an issue.
