In a special episode, Channel 9’s Travel Guides travelled to Ireland, the homeland of our resident digital editor, Orlaith Costello. In the September 2025 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly, Orlaith wrote a travel guide to the hidden heartlands of Ireland.
There are rich rewards and startling surprises, wallabies even, for travellers who venture into the less-travelled parts of the land of saints and scholars.
Read on for her travel guide and drop her a line if you ever need recommendations for the green country!
Into the Green: A travel guide to Ireland
One question that plagues every Irish person in Australia: Are you staying or are you going? I have been living in Australia for over a decade, but I still call Ireland home. For all the well-worn postcards of Ireland – the craggy cliffs, the cobbled pubs, the rolling green fields, the pints in Temple Bar – there’s a region which often slips under the radar. One that hums with folklore, wrapped in ancient forests, misty lakes with wild swimming spots known only to locals, and rivers that carve through the landscape like a silver ribbon.
This is Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands — home to ancient kings, myths and legend – and they’re just waiting to be uncovered.
Fáilte go croí na hÉireann. Welcome to the heart of Ireland.
A landscape written in water
The River Shannon – the longest river in the Celtic Isles of Great Britain and Ireland at 360 kilometres – is the lifeblood of the Heartlands. It winds its way from the landscape, connecting towns, villages and countryside and is deeply rooted in Ireland’s myth and memory.
You can cruise the river by boat (rentals are plentiful), glide along it in a canoe, or simply walk its banks. Along the way, you’ll stumble across places like Lough Key Forest Park, a lakeside escape where zip lines and canopy walks sit side-by-side with castle ruins and secret tunnels.
For cyclists and walkers, the Shannon Blueway and Old Rail Trail Greenway offer a relaxed way to explore the region’s towns and natural beauty.
Stories in the soil
One of the joys of the Heartlands is how deeply history and legend are etched into the landscape. At Uisneach Hill, considered Ireland’s sacred centre, the land is laced with myth. Said to be the gateway to the Otherworld, where the legends of Irish folklore reside. It was here that high kings once gathered and fires were lit to mark the ancient festival of Bealtaine. Take a guided tour, and you’ll hear tales of goddesses and warriors, druids and ancient kings and queens.
And then there’s Athlone, a town split across two counties (Westmeath and Roscommon) and united by its charm. Visit Athlone Castle for medieval tales and sieges, stroll the galleries at Luan, and end your day at Sean’s Bar, Ireland’s (and perhaps Europe’s) oldest pub, serving locals since 900 AD. Here, the pints come with stories, and the peat fire never dies.
The Ireland that fewer see
If you’ve seen the cliffs, kissed the Blarney Stone, or wandered through Dublin’s cobbled streets, the Hidden Heartlands offer a different kind of experience. The Heartlands offer something quieter, older, and more soulful than the tourist-thronged coasts. It’s the Ireland for travellers seeking something grounded, where the true heart of the island beats.
The Wild Atlantic Way
If you love endless coastlines and wild vistas, you should include at least some of The Wild Atlantic Way on your trip to Ireland. Stretching 2600 kilometres from the colourful seaside town of Kinsale in County Cork in the south, along the rugged western coastline to the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal in the north. For the truly adventurous, you can continue onto The Causeway Coastal Route, which travels around the northern coast, past the Giant’s Causeway and finishes up in Belfast city.
Gastronomic marvels
Irish cuisine is much more than potatoes and stew. Seek out fresh seafood and all things dairy. From cosy gastropubs to Michelin-starred restaurants and local favourites, there is plenty to discover.
This editor’s picks:
Michelin-starred fine dining:
- Bastion, Kinsale, Co. Cork
- Aniar, Galway city, Co. Galway
Cosy gastropub:
- The Rusty Mackerel, Co. Donegal
- McSwiggans (best Gastro Bar in Ireland 2025), Galway city, Co. Galway
- Linnane’s Lobster Bar, Connemara, Co. Galway.
Wine country
Ireland is renowned worldwide for its cider, stout and whiskies. But, thanks to climate change, in a few years, Ireland could be a fine wine-producing country! For now, there are new innovative vignerons cultivating vino. Móinéir is a range of award-winning fruit wines from Wicklow Way Wines. And Lusca Vineyard outside Dublin also makes a robust gold-medal-winning Rondo, Merlot, and sparkling wines. Be sure to call ahead for a tasting.
Whiskey and wallabies
Did you know there’s an island home to red-necked wallabies off the coast of Dublin? Well, there is and there is a whiskey distillery there: Lambay Whiskey. Originally introduced in the 1950s by the Baring family and then supplemented by a surplus Dublin Zoo population, they are happy there on the island, having adapted to the wetter and mistier conditions that their ancestors would have enjoyed Down Under.
Getting around
The best way to experience Ireland is slowly, ideally by car. The roads are winding, but every bend reveals another sweeping view or storybook town. You’ll want to linger: chat with a local, or follow a sign that points toward “Fairy Fort” or “Ancient Well.”
If you’re opting for public transport, all major towns and cities are linked by the national rail network, Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail), and bus routes by local providers and Bus Éireann.
Ireland has a fairly mild climate all year round. But you should expect all four seasons in a day. Pack accordingly.
This travel guide originally appeared in the September 2025 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly. Subscribe so you never miss an issue.
