There is a scene in the first episode of the new season of The White Lotus where a group of girlfriends celebrate their arrival at a wellness retreat on the island of Koh Samui with a cheers: “To Thailand, to self-care, and to a week of new memories!” That was me a few months ago (sans the champagne and girlfriends) when I travelled to Thailand for an eight-day restorative retreat at the Kamalaya Wellness Sanctuary & Holistic Spa in Koh Samui.
I’ve been to Thailand four times over the past three decades, each trip representing a seminal moment in my life. The first visit was at 21, backpacking with my best mate — we visited temples, ate Pad Thai from street stalls, snorkelled in the most stunning turquoise waters off the Phi Phi islands, drank way too many beers and laughed until we cried.
The second was in my 30s with my then-long-distance English boyfriend. We met up in Thailand for a romantic week that, unfortunately, went awry. I got sick, the sunshine turned into a torrential typhoon, and we got caught up in political unrest in Bangkok and had to be evacuated via a military airbase.
The third time, I was in my early 40s with my same childhood bestie (from my twenties) — we were older, wiser, and enjoyed a week of R&R.
Then, late last year, I returned, this time just for me, and this time, it was completely transformative. Closing in on 50, I was very much in need of a week of self-care, a physical and emotional reset. I planned to eat, stretch, sleep, repeat. But I got so much more when I checked into Kamalaya.
Watching The White Lotus — which was filmed at a similar resort on Koh Samui — took me straight back to Kamalaya: the greenest of jungle canopies and bluest of oceans, the dark teak wooden interior design, the aromatherapy scent that hits you the minute you arrive and lingers long after you’ve left, the picturesque lotus ponds, the open air wellness pavilions, the buggies that transport you from suite to sea, the Instagram-worthy beach and the long, slow, beautiful golden sunsets over the sparkling water.
Kamalaya — which has won myriad international wellness and travel awards — was founded 20 years ago by John and Karina Stewart. Nestled into a cliffside on the south coast of Koh Samui (a one-hour flight from Bangkok), the resort was built around the Arjan Cave. This tiny cave was discovered by John Stewart when he first visited the property in 2000. It was once a place of meditation and spiritual retreat for Buddhist monks.
The resort has everything you need for mind, body and soul: from every type of fitness — a gym, multiple pools, yoga, pilates, paddle boarding and kayaking, hot and cold plunge pools and infrared saunas to classes in meditation, mindfulness and life coaching.
And then there’s the treatments. Before you arrive, you are assessed by a consultant who sets a program for your stay. There are several categories, including Healthy Lifestyle, Detox & Reset, Stress & Burnout, Cultivating Heart, Body & Spirit, and Radiant Bliss — their first-ever women-focused wellness program — that can be undertaken at varying lengths up to 21 days. These are run by certified wellness professionals including naturopaths, doctors of Asian and Western medicine, nutritionists and Ayurvedic and Thai therapists.
For my eight-day retreat, I focused on a restorative program and embraced everything on offer. From the prescribed massages and treatments I’d never tried before to the digital detox. I only checked my phone once a day, managed to read three books, and caught up on what felt like a year’s worth of sleep. I also stuck to the recommended diet — 100 per cent plant-based, low inflammatory, nutrition-based meals — therapeutic smoothies and herbal teas (although I cheated and allowed myself one coffee a day!) and became obsessed with the sweet potato and coconut dumplings on the lunch menu.
Treatment highlights included:
- Shirodhara Therapy: An Ayurvedic treatment aimed at helping stress, headaches and fatigue. Warm oil is poured in a steady stream onto your forehead, scalp and hair. It feels odd and gooey and takes a bit of getting used to. However, for someone who suffers from headaches, I found this to be remarkably soothing and calming.
- Ozone therapy: The strangest but surprisingly fascinating treatment. It involves drawing your blood, mixing it with medical-grade oxygen and reinjecting it into your bloodstream. Whether its benefits of anti-ageing, enhanced brain function, and physical vitality actually worked on me remains to be seen.
- IV therapy: Depending on what type of treatment you get, this IV drip treatment aims to either help enhance energy and endurance for sporty types or help reset your circadian rhythm for improved rest.
- Reiki: Technically a Japanese healing technique that uses gentle touch to promote relaxation and wellbeing, I found my two Reiki sessions were transformative in stripping away emotional baggage.
- Massage / Facial: There are dozens of massages and facials to choose from at Kamalaya, but I had two favourites: The Signature Three Treasures, aimed at healing the body’s three main energy centres — or ‘Qi’ according to ancient Taoist theory — through massage and Reiki, left me feeling like a new woman in just 90 minutes; while the signature rose lymphatic facial felt like a warm hug on a cloud of roses and jasmine.
I’ve been to wellness retreats all around the world — from Byron Bay to Sri Lanka — and while each has its special qualities, there is something extra special about Kamalaya. It is not cheap — an eight-day retreat costs about the same as flying to Italy for a week’s vacation. However for me it was an investment in self-care: there are things I learnt and habits I changed at Kamalaya that I continue to practice today, including less screen time, more ‘staring at the water’ time, trying to keep my nervous system calm, readjusted sleep patterns, less caffeine, and generally eating better (even if I count switching from white to dark chocolate as ‘better’!). I arrived at Kamalaya feeling emotionally exhausted, and I left with a sense of calm and serenity.
Sophie stayed as a guest of Kamalaya. Images supplied.
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